Digiscoping
I am no longer digiscoping but it is an alternative way of getting images other than using an SLR camera with a long lens.
There are times when even a long telephoto lens just can't get you close enough to your subject to get the shot. This is when a field, or spotting scope with a zoom eyepiece can be useful. The quality of the images is not as good as an SLR camera, but it gives you the opportunity to get an image that you would otherwise have to miss.
When I was trying to perfect digiscoping I used a Canon Ixus camera and an Opticron ES80GAED scope fitted with a 20-60x zoom eyepiece.
There are some weird and wonderful digiscoping camera brackets available on the market at various prices, but you can just hold the camera to the eyepiece which does work well with some practice.
Alternatively you can make your own adaptor from a piece of tubing, some tape and/or elastic bands. The most important thing is to get the whole set up as steady as possible, as any movement from the scope, camera or tripod will not give very good results. Even with the eyepiece set to 20X magnification, the slightest movement will result in blur in the image. When you zoom in, any movement from the scope will mean even less chance of obtaining an acceptable result. If your camera has the facility to use a cable release this will obviously be of great benefit. If you are using a camera with no facility for a cable release to be attached, then you can buy a cable release bracket. This will mean that there is no movement at the scope being caused by the photographer actually touching it. It is also worth considering buying a camera that has a remote shutter release device, as even operating a normal cable release can cause some movement.
You have to remember that a lot of factors will determine whether you get decent images or not.
1. If it is a windy day, then your scope and tripod will be buffeted and give blurred images.
2. If there is a lot of heat haze, then this will degrade your images, as the scope will magnify this as well as your subject.
3. If you are touching the set up to fire the shutter then you will probably cause movement yourself.
Not all cameras are suitable for digiscoping and it is best to get advice from someone who is using the camera you are thinking of using yourself. This part of digiscoping is sometimes trial and error.
Although I have now stopped digiscoping, I have left the Digiscoped Images portfolio on the site so that you can see the kind of images that can be obtained using this method of photography.
Please feel free to use the contact page if you have any questions.
Thanks for your interest and good luck with your digiscoping efforts.
Mark.
There are times when even a long telephoto lens just can't get you close enough to your subject to get the shot. This is when a field, or spotting scope with a zoom eyepiece can be useful. The quality of the images is not as good as an SLR camera, but it gives you the opportunity to get an image that you would otherwise have to miss.
When I was trying to perfect digiscoping I used a Canon Ixus camera and an Opticron ES80GAED scope fitted with a 20-60x zoom eyepiece.
Opticron ES80GAED
There are some weird and wonderful digiscoping camera brackets available on the market at various prices, but you can just hold the camera to the eyepiece which does work well with some practice.
Hand holding the camera
Alternatively you can make your own adaptor from a piece of tubing, some tape and/or elastic bands. The most important thing is to get the whole set up as steady as possible, as any movement from the scope, camera or tripod will not give very good results. Even with the eyepiece set to 20X magnification, the slightest movement will result in blur in the image. When you zoom in, any movement from the scope will mean even less chance of obtaining an acceptable result. If your camera has the facility to use a cable release this will obviously be of great benefit. If you are using a camera with no facility for a cable release to be attached, then you can buy a cable release bracket. This will mean that there is no movement at the scope being caused by the photographer actually touching it. It is also worth considering buying a camera that has a remote shutter release device, as even operating a normal cable release can cause some movement.
You have to remember that a lot of factors will determine whether you get decent images or not.
1. If it is a windy day, then your scope and tripod will be buffeted and give blurred images.
2. If there is a lot of heat haze, then this will degrade your images, as the scope will magnify this as well as your subject.
3. If you are touching the set up to fire the shutter then you will probably cause movement yourself.
Not all cameras are suitable for digiscoping and it is best to get advice from someone who is using the camera you are thinking of using yourself. This part of digiscoping is sometimes trial and error.
Although I have now stopped digiscoping, I have left the Digiscoped Images portfolio on the site so that you can see the kind of images that can be obtained using this method of photography.
Please feel free to use the contact page if you have any questions.
Thanks for your interest and good luck with your digiscoping efforts.
Mark.
